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This year, I had the opportunity to return to the beautiful, historic, geological wonder - The Mojave Desert.
As mentioned in my post – Beyond the Local Patch: A Desert Adventure, the Mojave Desert is located in a region which over millions of years, has undergone a drastic transformation and continuous evolution: from initially being part of an ocean basin, to the arid, geological wonder we see today.
The highlights of my previous visit included Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area and Keystone Thrust Fault. This time around, I visited another part of the desert located North East of Las Vegas: The Valley of Fire National State Park.
First, a side note on the Mojave Desert
In my previous post, I discussed the evolution of the Mojave Desert over the eras. There are many natural, awesome occurances, such as canyons, faults, folds, mountains and various other rock formations (and a combination of these occurences). Many of these formations vary in size and have been shaped by natural forces both beneath and above the earth's crust. Additionally, despite its harsh and extreme weather conditions, this desert sustains a variety of vibrant plant and animal life.
When studying and researching such prehistoric, diverse environments, one realises that the learning is endless.
One such realisation came, when it was drawn to my attention that as the region continued to develop over the eras, there is also evidence of volcanic activity in the Mojave Desert, due to the shifting tectonic plates.
Subsequently, different types of volcanic structures have formed in this desert, contributing its already rich environment. Furthermore, in addition to sedimentary and metamorphic rocks, various types igneous rocks (rocks formed from magma and lava) are included as one of the three main rock types found in this desert.
On to The Valley of Fire National State Park
Making our way to The Valley of Fire National State Park, we drove through the Muddy Mountain Wilderness Area - a grey limestone range which (partially) envolopes The Valley of Fire.
The Valley of Fire is a 40'000 acre natural geological museum and its aptly named due to the vast expanse of flaming red Aztec sandstone formations found there. Some of the structures we visited include: The Beehives, Atlatl Rock, Rainbow Vista, The Domes, Fire Canyon and The Cabins.
Similar to Red Rock Canyon the formation of The Valley of Fire takes us back to the Jurassic Period, in the Mesozoic Era. The main rock types found in these areas are sedimentary and metamorphic rocks. Simply put, many of the rock formations were once sand dunes and loose sediments and particles (including skeletal and shell deposits from animal and plant life).
Over time, these sand dunes lithified to form the various rock formations and vistas which we see today. Some of the swirling designs on the rock formations are due to the wind shaping the sand dunes and the chemical reactions of the minerals in the rocks. Furthermore, these rocks have undergone transformations (metamorphed) due to various processes, such as: atmospheric changes, heat, erosion, weathering, compression, pressure, extremes in weather conditions, tectonic activity, chemical reactions and exposure to the elements.
Although the brilliant red Aztec Sandstone is arguably the most outstanding rock found at The Valley of Fire (which gets its red colour as a result of the oxidisation of iron) a spectrum of coloured rock can be found at the national park, including hues of white, brown and purple.
The sedimentary rocks comprise of various minerals and substances and furthermore, provide the raw materials for items which we use in our everyday lives.
Some of the various rocks found in The Valley of Fire include limestone (used in construction), calcite (the base material of chalk) gypsum (used in dry wall and construction materials), quartz (also an igneous rock – used in construction, as well as watch and clock making), sandstone (used in construction and an early example can be seen in The Valley of Fire with the well-intended but crudely constructed Cabins, built in 1935).
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It is interesting to note that some of the natural rock sculptures which we saw imitate various natural and manmade objects – Piano Rock, Elephant Rock Balancing Rock (a defiance of gravity) are popular examples of Nature having a sense of humour.
More to be found: Other Natural Formations
The natural formations at The Valley of Fire do not stop at geological structures. A few other formations found in the desert include:
Cross Bedding - Cross bedding occurs when sediments have been deposited at various points in time forming “beds” or "layers". The rocks further reveal the angles and direction of the erosive elements (wind and water), which causes the prominent cross sections. An example of cross bedding can be seen at the rock structures known as the Beehives.
Desert varnish – This is a dark, shiny, charcoal-coloured substance is found on the surface of some of the rock formations. Although not fully understood, it is said that the desert varnish is formed as a result of the rection between the minerals in the rock (magnese and iron) and organic material such as algea and lichen. The early settlers would carve images (known a polygraphs) into the desert varnish, which can still be seen today. Atlatl Rock is a popular site to view the ancient polygraphs.
Tanks – During our stop at Atlatl Rock, we saw one of these naturally formed water reservoirs. Once used by the early settlers, they are a now an important, potential source of water for wildlife in the desert. We saw evidence of big horned sheep in the area, as they would have been seeking water in the intense, desert heat.
Other interesting formations
Other formations which I did not see, but still piqued my interest include:
Cryptobiotic soil – this substance is a formed from a mixture of organic matter such a lichen, moss and so on. This covering is beneficial for the desert soil and is an extremely delicate substance. Once tampered with, it takes years to regenerate.
Petrified Wood - trees dating back to the Mesozoic Era, which originated from distant highlands are said to have fallen into a river and eventually made their way The Valley of Fire. The wood mixed with the sediment and and submereged in it. The lack of oxygen (inhibiting decomposition), loss of organic matter and the minerals in the sediment taking over the wood, are the processes which contributed to the wood being "petrified", preserved or fossilzed in the rock formations.
Coral Fossil: Found in the Muddy Mountains, these are the skeletal and shell preserves of plant and animal life. This is an interesting formation as it is holds evidence of the region's prehistoric past showing that this area was once at the bottom of an ocean basin.
Folds: This is caused when the rocks "bend" under pressure (rather than breaking or fracturing), forming a fold. The deposits which make up sedimentary rocks form horizontal layers, which disort during the process. There are different types of folds and various processes which form them. Although we did not see any folds, the Fire Canyon was formed as a result of erosion wearing away the top of a fold.
Wildlife
Despite the extreme desert heat, wildlife in The Valley of Fire is abundant. On our tour, we were warned to beware of rattlesnakes, which are active in spite of the scorching heat. While we fortunately or unfortunately, did not see any rattlesnakes, we saw squirrels, bees and other insects, birds, hummingbirds, a lizard and evidence of big horned sheep. Many of these wildlife species, including the insects, were trying to find relief from the scorching desert heat.
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The Mojave Desert however, is home to what seems to be an endless list of wildlife species. This includes: coyotes, foxes, jack rabbits, desert tortoise, mule deserts, mountain lions, hawks, bobats, snakes and bluebirds.
Furthermore, at The Valley of Fire Visitor Center there were the following live animals:
Chuckwalla - this reptile one of the Mojave Desert's largest lizards and while they consume insects, they mainly feed on plants (especially the leaves of creosote bush). Chuckwallas are said to be active during the day and are able to store water for later consumption. They hibernate in the months the temperatures are lower. One of its defence mechanisms is to deliberately exapand itself between the spaces of rocks, making dislodging it a challenge for its predators.
Gopher Snake - Like the chuckwalla, the gopher snake is resilient to the desert heat. This snake feeds on rodents, lizards and birds and bird eggs, due to its ability to make its way up trees. Although a constrictor and not venomous, gopher snakes are said to bear resemblence to rattlesnakes, due to their colouration. This snake seems fully aware of this similarity, as when threatened, it is said to triganulate its head, enlargens itself and mimick the movements of a rattlesnake.
Kingsnake- another constrictor, this snake is described as "glossy" in appearance. It was named after one of its defining traits - its cannabalistic diet and abaility to withstand venom from the snakes it consumes (at least rattlesnakes). It does however, also consume rodents, birds, lizards..
Plant Life
Similiar to the countless species of wildlife which survive the harsh conditions of this desert, the Mojave Desert is home to an abundance of plant life. While the now familiar creosote bush (a personal favourite) was pointed out on our tour, I was also introduced to other species of plants, which include:
Desert Mistletoe - this plant is infamous for being parasitic, and gets sustenance by feeding off other plants (mainly leguminous ones). The host plant, as well as the mistletoe itself, ultimately do not survive the partnership.
Desert Mistletoe is said to produce fruit (berries) which are safe to consume, unlike the other parts of the plant. One of the pollinators of Desert Mistletoe are phainopepla birds.
Cow's Tongue Prickly Pear - this a type of prickly pear cactus, which despite its thickness was quite wide spread. When looking at this plant, one can see how its name was derived - what is known as the "pads" or flat, fleshy parts of the cactus bears resemblence to a cow's tongue. The fruit and pads of this plant have been used as a food source by the early settlers and is once again gaining this popularity.
Jumping Cactus/Cholla - when viewing this plant driving through the desert, its green, fuzzy, soft appearance, made it seem harmless enough. However, all is not what it seemed as the soft fuzz is actually the spines of the cactus - which according to research are quite painful upon contact. Research indicates that these defensive spines were once leaves which have transformed into the defensive mechanism is it now. Although there were claims of the cactus actually jumping at passerbys, the spikes of the cactus actually easily dislodge, even at the slightest contact.
Another Beautiful Adventure
The Mojave Desert is one of the best places to see Nature at work - where an explosion of art and science come together to form this beautiful region. It is truely awesome and unfathomable.
Related Article:
August 2017: Beyond the Local Patch: A Desert Adventure
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